Beautiful Lyon
From the time we arrived in Lyon it didn’t fail to surprise us.
Lyon airport looking like a space aged butterfly was a seamless entry.
Due to terrible traffic conditions downtown People rushed to the shuttle bus to connect with the Rhine Express. Not sure if Express is the word but it whisks people downtown to Station Part Dieu costing €13.50. Once you arrive at Part Dieu this is where is gets confusing. You need to walk over to the very large building and walk the length of exiting the other side. Once on the other side exit and walk ahead to another large building on the right. Turn right around the building and walk along until you find the tram station Part Dieu. Grab a ticket for €1.90 and the B line heading towards Gare d’Oullins. Alight after 2 stops and Gare Sade Gambetta. Alight and take the D line to Gare de Vaise exiting at station Vieux Lyon. You have now arrived in the heart of old town.
Our apartment on Rue de Bœu, one the the UNESCO listed streets in Vieux Lyon.
With our eyes twinkling with delight we wandered with our bags down the stunning narrow cobbled streets.
It was just on twilight with light shining and couples strolling. Finding our apartment easily we walked down our first Traboule, one of the many tunnels around the old world town
connecting streets and courtyard.
Entering our courtyard was Tour de Rose towering above us, we met Patrick who showed us our beautiful heritage listed apartment. I highly recommend staying in the old town. So very special.
Asking what we could have for dinner, Patrick suggested wine and cheese at l’illustre. Walking down to l’illustre, 1 Place Ennemond, we ordered a lovely platter of 5 cheeses with divine wine, sat back to watch the world go by. Pleasantly devoid of tourists we immediately felt at home. Waking back along the beautiful streets we stopped at Glacier de Saint Jean, a well known ice cream shop. Ordering salted caramel and rice pudding we wandered back home.
The next morning, being Sunday, we were really worried about everything being shut, though once we saw a snake line out a door we knew we had found Boulangerie Du Palais Bakery.
Eyes bigger than our bellies we ordered chaise du pommes. (basically loads of buttery pastry filled to the top with apples. Finding a takeaway coffee we walked down to the beautiful river Saône to eat.
Stunning views down the river with heritage buildings either side, we walked across the river with beautiful he statue of 'holding my own weight' on our right. We strolled through the amazing food markets wanting to eat and buy everything in sight. The people we beautiful and friendly: manners, friendliness and community. Oh to live here!
Finishing the markets we walked back over another bridge to the art markets. Only on a Sunday and open from 7-1pm, these are a perfect shopping experience. Beautiful paintings, jewellery and craft lined the old town side of the river. Buying a painting for 60€ and hand, made earrings for €15 was a beautiful momento for me. Finishing here at 12pm we walked back up past L’illustre restaurant to the bakery again! We found a number of traboules as we walked. Rather secret passages, with a number to tell you the location. You need a map to be able to find these otherwise you will walk straight passed.
Buying delicious baguettes and a bottle of wine opposite at Antic Wines for €7 lunch lunch was sorted.
We then walked up to Gare Vieux Lyon. Buying a 3€ return ticket for the funicular we rolled up the steep slope to Fourvière cathedral de Notre Dame overlooking the city of Lyon.
A pretty cathedral over 100 years old with incredible views. Wandering around with walked to the Roman amphitheater. We then took the funicular back down with the same ticket. Walking to Saint Jean chapel . At the square we marvelled at the astronomical clock. Sadly the cathedral was being renovated so most was covered in white plastic.
This afternoon meant silk shopping A number of options from the cheap and reasonable to handmade very expensive products. Firstly visiting La Soire de Saint Jean, the most famous scarves ranged from €25 to A LOT! Beautiful quality and designs. Nothing taking my fancy though, rue Saint Jean had a few cheaper options.
New Delhi, a funny Indian shop had a number of silk scarves out the the 12€. We also found another large touristy shop who had a few as well. With the afternoon rolling on we wandered up the street as far as we could go finding sneaky traboules and other gorgeous things as we walked.
With such a lovely laid back feel it was very easy to walk around. Wondering what Bouchin we would eat at we decided to just wing it. I am sure there a Michelin star Bouchins, but really with everyone eating outside you can just look and decide.
We really wanted a traditional Lyonaisse speciality restaurant. (not really understanding what this meant!)
We just walked around until we found something that suited us. Most Bouchins had a set menu for €19.99 for entree, main and dessert. Great value. We finally chose a cute bouchin on Rue de Bœuf, called restaurant Chez La Mere Marcelle.
Dinner was tricky, not realising that specialities included brains and blood sausages! We finally chose a Lyonaisse salad, lobster soufflé and creme caramel using Google Translate.
The waiter was amazing and having recently finished an internship in my home town, we wondered at how small the world is.
Sadly leaving this magical city we reversed our transport options to get back to the airport for our flight home.
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